Men are seen fishing near the fortresses of Narva, left, in Estonia, and Ivangorod, right, in Russia, on Wednesday, May 24, 2023. The two countries took radically different paths after the Soviet Union's collapse, and an Associated Press correspondent who was in Moscow for almost all of Vladimir Putin’s rule until earlier this year has watched Russia’s steps forward as well as its retreat into isolation. Now assigned to Estonia, he tries to parse Russia's lost promise. (AP Photo/Jim Heintz, File)