In fourteen hundred ninety two, Columbus sailed the ocean blue …” This line is part of the collective memory of school children in America. Besides that line, what do we know about Christopher Columbus? He was born in 1451 in Genoa, Italy, and was a contemporary of other Italians such as Bottecelli and Michaelangelo. Theirs was a generation who led Europe out of the Middle Ages and into a vast explosion of knowledge and discovery. They challenged conventional wisdom and did not accept the status quo.
The usual knowledge of Columbus was he was born Italian, sailed for Queen Isabella of Spain and bumped into Central America on his attempted journey to find spices in the Far East. Much more important than just finding spices, he completely changed the face of farming and food in Europe and in the New World.
Lucio Sorre, a historian, wrote an essay for the Castello Banfi winery in Tuscany about “Christopher Columbus ... his gastromic persona.” His essay
covered not only Columbus’ personal culinary history, but also covered the foods eaten on his voyages and the exchange of indigenous foods between the Old World and the New World. Sorre states that Columbus' first voyage was the best stocked with food items. One problem on stocking ships for voyages of unknown lengths was providing necessary items in the event refilling stops didn't materialize. The first voyage carried water, vinegar, wine, olive oil, molasses, cheese, honey, raisins, garlic, almonds, hardtack (sea biscuits), dry beans, salted sardines, anchovies, salt cod and pickled meats and salted flour. Fresh fish caught by the sailors supplemented this heavily salted pantry.
Initially Columbus was seeking a southern route to Asia to seek spices not readily available in Europe. Although he didn't get to Asia for cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and other spices, his discoveries changed the face of foodstuffs in Europe. Among the items brought back to Spain were yams, potatoes, pineapple, peppers, cocoa, vanilla, papaya, squash corn, tomatoes, peanuts, cotton, avocados, cotton and the turkey. The colonization of this new land by Columbus and others introduced sheep, goats, certain types of cattle, olives, walnuts, wheat, rice, cinnamon, cloves, peaches, apricots and oranges, sugarcane, olives and bananas. The arrival of the Spanish did not destroy the Inca and Mayan agricultural systems; rather, the plants and farming methods from each source enhanced the other.
As a recipe for this week, I chose to feature a plant that is closely identified with the birthplace of Columbus - Genoa, Italy. This time of year basil is especially prolific. My own plants are huge! The herb, basil, is the primary ingredient in pesto, a dish that claims its origin in Genoa. In fact, Genoa hosts the biannual Pesto World Championship. This sauce, composed of very simple ingredients, made its way south into the remainder of Italy and subsequently across the world.
Basil grows extremely well in our environment and can be made into pesto easily. The recipe I am giving you comes from Heidi Swanson, author of the blog 101 Cookbooks. She reports learning this way of making pesto from a real Italian grandmother.
Italian Grandmother Pesto
• 1 large bunch of basil, leaves only, washed and dried
• 3 medium cloves of garlic, peeled
• one small handful of raw pine nuts
• roughly 3/4 cup Parmesan, loosely packed and freshly grated
• A few tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil
Special equipment: a mezzaluna for chopping (a messaluna is a curved blade with handles on each end. A chef's knife works well.)
Start chopping the garlic along with about 1/3 of the basil leaves. Once this is loosely chopped add more basil, chop some more, add the rest of the basil, chop some more. I scrape and chop, gather and chop. At this point the basil and garlic should be a very fine mince. Add about half the pine nuts, chop. Add the rest of the pine nuts, chop. Add half of the Parmesan, chop. Add the rest of the Parmesan, and chop. Cover the completed pesto with a few tablespoons of oil.
Thin before serving, if needed, with a spoonful or two of water.
Serve over pasta.
Fran Ginn is former chef/owner of The Back Door Café, who retired after 31 years in the food industry to be a grandmother. She can be contacted at fran@franginn.com.
