Cookbooks have been written for myriad reasons. The earliest cookbooks were records of foods prepared so that other people could re-create dishes. Some cookbooks are vanity books — pure and simple. Other cookbooks are loving and earnest compilations of recipes to raise monies for one deserving cause or another. Still more cookbooks are memory books, written to preserve the tastes and mores of another era. Some restaurants have written cookbooks to preserve the influence their food had on a group of people; there are dozens of other reasons. However, I only know of one cookbook written for the express reason of international propaganda. That is the book we are exploring today.
As most people know, Queen Elizabeth's uncle, the Prince of Wales, then King George VIII, ascended the throne in January 1936, following the death of his father, King George V. He had no interest in the politics and policies of royalty. His great interests were in women, golf, parties and what became known several decades later as “jet-setting.”
The Duke of Windsor, as he was known before and after his brief reign as King of England, especially enjoyed liaisons with married women. One married mistress introduced him to another married woman, Wallis Simpson, an American living in Great Britain. After beginning the relationship with Wallis, he chose to abdicate his throne to marry her (Wallis was twice divorced with both ex-husbands living).
His famous statement to the English people was, “I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as King as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.”
Bessie Wallis Warfield Spencer Simpson Windsor was born on June 19, 1896. Her father died when she was six months old. She and her mother lived with a variety of family. Her father's wealthy brother never married and viewed Bessie Wallis as his own daughter. He sent her to Oldfields School, the premier girls' school in Maryland. She became close friends with the duPont family and the Kirk family (founders of Kirk Silverware). A classmate at Oldfields School said of Bessie Wallis, "She was bright, brighter than all of us. She made up her mind to go to the head of the class, and she did." Wallis said of herself, "“I'm not a beautiful woman. I'm nothing to look at, so the only thing I can do is dress better than anyone else.”
Fast forward to Edward's abdication to marry “the woman he loved.” Britain did not accept her. The Royal Family did not recognize her.
The couple traveled to France after their marriage. The Duke and Duchess lived in France in the pre-war years. In 1937, they made a very widely publicized visit to Germany and met Adolf Hitler at the Berghof, his Berchtesgaden retreat. Hitler was taken with Wallis and treated her with the respect her husband thought due her. Following the visit, Hitler said of Wallis, "she would have made a good Queen.” The Windsors continued a public friendship with the Third Reich. Many Britons believed their former king and his bride to be agents of the Nazis. They lived out their post-war life as exiles in France.
What does all this have to do with a cookbook? In order to cast her in a more favorable light with the British, some of the advisors, including Eleanor Roosevelt, decided a cookbook written by the Duchess with all proceeds going to the War Effort would add some luster to her reputation. Wartime propaganda was reduced to cups and tablespoons. The book was well received and generally perceived to have good recipes. It polished her reputation for a time. In actuality the book was written and copywrited by Marie M. Meloney, editor of the New York Herald Tribune Sunday Magazine with recipes tested by the New York Herald Tribune's Institute for Women. (Mrs. Meloney was a close personal friend of Mrs. Roosevelt). It is delightful to me to read recipes loaded with butter and cream attributed to the woman who coined the phrase “One cannot be too rich or too thin.”
Maryland Fried Chicken
(Serves 4)
l 1 young chicken (about 3 pounds) disjointed
l 1 cup flour
l 3 Tblsp. fat
l 1 Tbslp. butter
l 1 cup broth (made from the giblets)
l salt and pepper
l 1/2 cup heavy cream
l 2 Tbslp. freshly chopped parsley
Salt chicken generously and roll in flour. Put oil and butter in iron skillet. Put top on skillet and turn frequently and let them brown on all sides. When browned, add 2 Tblsp. of water with top on in a slow oven, 300 degrees, for 30 minutes, or until tender. Pour off all but two Tblsp. drippings in which chicken was cooked. Stir in 2 Tblsp. of flour. Add cream, salt and pepper to taste and giblet broth. Stir constantly over low heat until thickened. Add chopped giblets if desired. Serve chicken on a platter covered with the cream gravy. Garnish with a bit of freshly chopped parsley.
"On the night of 11 December 1936, Edward, explained his decision to abdicate in a worldwide radio broadcast. He famously said, 'I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.' " Twice married and divorced Wallis Warfield Simpson, an American from Baltimore, MD, who became the Duchess of Windsor upon her marriage to the once King of England, George VIII, was known in English circles as "that woman". How differently Meghan Markle, once divorced and of racially mixed parentage has been received by the Royal Family.
Fran Ginn is former chef/owner of The Back Door Café, who retired after 31 years in the food industry to be a grandmother. She can be contacted at fran@franginn.com.
