My mother was a history teacher and was quite an American history buff. One of the chief subjects of her interest was Native Americans. She especially loved the story of the first Thanksgiving, always talking of how the Indians were incredibly hospitable to the people who had moved into their land.
In fact, many years ago she purchased almost life-sized Indian people, a brave and a squaw, made of straw. The brave has a very stern expression that troubled me; the squaw looks more pleasant. These very interesting statues were low on the “I want that” list when we sorted out Mama’s estate. Sadly, the Indians are still in my storage unit. Since Thanksgiving is almost here, I believe I will pay homage to Mama and her boundless admiration of the American Indian and their contribution to creating an enduring holiday celebration.
The Indian tribe who were culinary consultants to the Pilgrim Fathers were the Wampanoag. These hospitable Native Americans were evidently quite good cooks. They were well schooled in use of wild greens and barks for seasoning.
A letter written by Edward Winslow is an eye-witness account of the preparation and consumption of this first meal by the colonists. Although wild turkeys were abundant, the account Mr. Winslow relates just mentions "seasonal fowl.” Among the other fowl consumed by the Wampanoag were duck, geese, swan, eagle and crane. The Indians also brought venison, a usual source of protein for them. Mr. Winslow doesn't tell if the venison was fresh or dried.
Cranberries were abundant in the area, but granulated sugar had not arrived in North America at that time. If cranberries were used, they added tartness to a dish. Other foods that were abundant and used often by the Wampanoag were Jerusalem artichokes, sweet flag, Indian turnip and water lily. The sweet potato had not migrated north from South America in 1621, and the white potato was unknown by both the Indians and the Pilgrims. Pumpkins were available, but were a vegetable, not a pie filling.
There was a wealth of garden produce from the Pilgrim gardens, such as greens, carrots, onions, dried beans and herbs. From the forests came wild blueberries, nuts, grapes and plums. The most often mentioned crop of the Wampanoag was corn. The Indians dried the corn crop to use through the year. Mr. Winslow reported that the Pilgrims learned to grind the corn into meal to use as porridge and bread.
My mother always pointed out the reason for this first Pilgrim-Indian feast was to celebrate the bounty of the harvest that year. In addition, the Pilgrims felt the need to thank the Wampanoag for the help given them in methods of agriculture and learning to live from the land. As the Pilgrims were fond of quoting from the Bible, Hebrews 13:2 instructs, "Do not forget to show hospitality to strangers.” All in all, this joint meal was a high point in settler-Native American relations.
Mr. Winslow said in his letter, "These things I thought good to let you understand, being the truth of things as near as I could experimentally take knowledge of, and that you might on our behalf give God thanks who hath dealt so favorably with us. …
And although it be not always so plentiful as it was at this time with us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so far from want that we often wish you partakers of our plenty.”
It is a privilege as Americans that we have a holiday designed to set apart a day to give thanks. I wish you each a wonderful Thanksgiving. If anyone thinks a straw Indian brave and squaw would enhance your Thanksgiving, please let me know.
How to Cook a Whole Pumpkin
Choose a small “pie pumpkin” weighing about 2-3 pounds.
Line a heavy baking sheet with parchment paper or foil and set the oven at 400º.
Remove the stem, and cut the pumpkins in half, from top to bottom. Use a large sharp chef's knife for this - it will be much easier.
Scoop out all of the seeds, and pull out whatever stringy membranes you them. Lay the pumpkin halves, cut side down on the baking sheet. Roast the pumpkins for 45 minutes to an hour, until a sharp knife meets no resistance at all when poked into the side. Allow the pumpkins to cool until you can comfortably handle them.
Carefully cut the skin away from the pumpkin flesh. Cut the flesh into cubes. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Just before serving heat on a baking sheet in a 350 oven until warm.
Fran Ginn is former chef/owner of The Back Door Café, who retired after 31 years in the food industry to be a grandmother. She can be contacted at fran@franginn.com.
